Installing Replacement Windows – Step-by-Step

We’Re going to start off by measuring the window, so we know what size of window in order and you want to measure it in multiple spots. So, first we’re going to measure here. It’S 48 also, 48 spider up at the top bottom, that’s 48 and a half. So we want to order a window, that’s the smallest dimension, so we’re going to order a window, that’s 47 and 1/2 on all sides, and that way it gives us room for weathering and caulking. Ok, since this wall and window has already been cocked and painted in I’m going to take the razor and squirt it along the edge and cut it so that when we remove the window, it doesn’t pull big chunks of the plaster out with it.

This window has a few interior screws, so I’m going to go through and make sure all the interior screws are out and that’s very important to do. That’S what I got lucky, because it’s a cross points crew and I cross point a power screwdriver. So you can use either a regular manual screwdriver or a power tool. The next step is to take the sliding part of the window out, so we’re going to move it so that it’s in the wind in the middle, so that you can take a hold of it and you’re going to push it up and pull the bottom out. And it comes right out.

The next step is to take the center post out and to do that, we have a little brace right here, where there’s a screw doing going down to the base and a screw going to the side and there’s the same thing on the bottom screw going in To the side and screw going up, and so we’ll remove that now that the screws are out we’re going to try and break the center post free by using a mallet, it’s moving out very slowly. So we’re going to work at the top and the bottom. But you still have to be careful not to break the glass out of the paint managed to move the window away from the wall, move it more towards the center, since this is a sliding window, move it towards the center, so that we can push it up And pull it out in order since, since we’re taking the window out and we’re going to be replacing the frame, we don’t really care about so to help us get the window up. If it’s sticking, you can use a pry bar or screwdriver like that, to get it free now we’re going to remove the frame and, as you can see right here, it’s been cemented in to make up for a discrepancy in width up there that didn’t need, if It down here it did so. What we’re going to do is we’re going to pull it from this side, and this side will probably have to be pried out, talked about a lot easier than we thought now in order for the new window to fit and easier.

We need to clean out all of the old grout and caulking in everything around the window, so the last step for cleaning it up is to get the ridges off. So it’s nice and smooth and ready for the new window and then we’re going to take a vacuum and clean up all the debris and my preference is to find a guy to come and clean it up for you. But if you can’t the new window, we’re going to put in is a dual pane: low e argon filled window. It has a you factor of 0.3, a solar heat gain coefficient of point chillin and visible transmittance of point four eight, and these this window took about ten days to order and get in from the local hardware store, okay to install the window, to make it easier.

We’Re going to remove the screen and to make it lighter we’re going to remove the window, but in order to remove the window on this one, it has a locking feature that you can’t. This is a safety feature that you can’t push up the window with this. Here so we’re going to slide it over so that we can push up the window and push up and pull it out, and it comes out really easy. The next step before we put in the window is to use a countersink and we’re going to countersink the hole. The hole where you’re going to put the screw to attach the window to the to the house.

And the point of the countersink is so that the head of the screw will be flush with the the inside of the window. Actually putting the window in place is actually two-person job, so I have my little sister here to help hey. This is a spirit level and right now I’m checking her plumb, which is straight up and down, and you check for level nests for azan Polly and, as you can see right now, the bubble is right in between the two lines. So it’s it’s just in the right spot. Once you have the window level, plumb and centered in the window area, then you’re going to take and use a drill with a masonry drill bit to drill into concrete and brick um to make a spot for the concrete anchor screws.

When you drill it, you want to make sure that you drill, as far as the screw will go so on this one, we’re going to drill until the drill goes about that deep into the window. Once you have pre-drilled the hole, then you take your concrete anchor screws and screw last hole. Okay, in order to fill in this giant gap up here, we’re going to use some of this, which is called backer rod and it’s about 3/8 of an inch and so I’ll just push it up in there before we phone it around the window, any once you Get the corners: if there’s any extra, you can trim the extra to cover up this half inch gap up at the top we’re going to cut a piece of trim to cover that and the inside sends it smaller. We can use caulking to cover that up, but I’m going to film it from the outside. So in order to keep it from seeping in I’m going to use tape to cover it up so that it only goes so far.

The next step is to take a window indoor foam sealant, and this isn’t doesn’t actually expand as much as some of the other ones, and you want to be sure to get the right kind, because if it expands too much, it can actually put pressure on the Window and actually make it hard to open and close your window. So when we put this in we’re going to try and put the the nozzle of the foam all the way to the back and let it expand out a little bit. But we want to stop before it expands out too much, because we can go through and do a second layer and you don’t have to come out all the way because you can go through with a controlled one after that dries. And it’s really easy to cut off with a razor blade. Now that the foam is dried, I’m going to trim it with a razor blade to about a quarter of an inch below the surface of the window and then we’ll fill it in with caulking.

Now that we’re done trimming all the foam, we’re going to take this mortar caulking to fill in the area all the way around the window and a trick to do that, to keep your job nice and neat to make sure that the caulking doesn’t get on the Window or the brick is to tape it off. Now I’m working my way down the wall with the caulking, where we’re trying not to get too much on the on the window and too much on the brick in the low areas. We’Ll have to put a little more than some of the higher errors. But we’re not too worried because we can smooth it out with our fingers and a putty knife once we’re done now, I’m going to smooth out the caulking with my finger and it’s okay for it to look rough, because the original mortar was a little more rough. Looking so when they go through and smooth it out some areas, because the caulking sticks to your finger, you might need to use a putty knife because it doesn’t stick to it as much and you can push it up in areas where it’s it’s missing and over.

In areas like this, we want to kind of spread it out into the old mortar, so it kind of looks similar to what the old stuff looked like. Once you have finished the caulking, you want to make sure you remove the tape before the caulking sets up and dries completely and then, after you remove the tape. You’Ll need to touch up any spots that were messed up from the tape removal. We are almost done. These spots up here were pulled out when I remove the tape, so try not to touch the the window.

You just want to press those down and smooth it out and with that we are all done installing our new window and to recap we remove the old window, went down to the hardware, store and purchased a brand new window and the window plus supplies cost. Just under two hundred dollars – and it takes about two and a half hours to install from start to finish and don’t forget, you have to wait overnight for the foam to dry before you can put in the kaki. Go cats

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