[inaudible]. Hello everyone. Jeff here again. Today we’re going to show you how to quickly and cheaply remodel your old 1970s bathrooms. So you can see here this is a bathroom that was put in.
This building was built I guess in the early, early seventies and you can tell them that kind of yellow stuff was popular back then. So the 1970s called and they want their bathroom back and we’re going to give it to them [inaudible] so we’re basically going to show you how to quickly got this bathroom here. What are we going to do today is we’re going to remove out this vanity here you see here and we’re going to remove the toilet. And then we’re going to strip off all of this linoleum and then we’re going down to put, put new tile down real quick and we’re going to put a new vanity right back. On top of this we’re going to remove this old style mirror and here we’re going to remove this medicine cabinet and replace it with a new one.
This thing is just lift, it’s dated and ugly. And lastly, we’ll put in a nice fixture here and you should be able to do all of this yourself for under $1,000. The vanity, it’s going to go here. Uh, this is only a 24 inch wide unit here, so this is going to be about it at $200 special from home depot. Um, we’ll put it in American standard.
Um, champion for toilet will go here elongated, we’ll put any longer [inaudible] little bigger toilet. And um, that’s about $200. And then let’s see, we’ll put a new faucet on. There would be about 50. All the hoses together should be about 20 bucks and new valves are going to go on the wall in the back there underneath.
Um, you can see I’ve already done that. I’ve already put the new valves on there and you can see they had the old copper pipes there and those are going to come down.
We’ll replace those with the stainless steel hoses. We’ll tidy up and with a new peach rep and we’ll get the show rolling here. So I’m looking here and there, shower.
So this was a foreclosed unit and in here you can see they’ve already uh, done some recent work. We don’t know when this was done, probably a few years back, but it does look in pretty good shape. So we’re not going to touch that. What we might do is get some type of tile that will match either the tile on the floor there or maybe something that will match the wall, maybe a lighter gray type of a title, a little bit more modern.
Anything’s going to be better than this linoleum.
And you can expect this linoleum to be a pain to pull up and you can also expect it to be multiple layers as well. And we’ll have to deal with that. And then we’ll scrape off all of the whatever we can from the adhesive face. So as we started with the mirror here, I usually like to use a utility knife and I come along at score down the side and the top of the mirror because people tend to paint up against these things and that will act like glue or sometimes people will talk on them and you want to get rid of all the call as well. And I was like to wear gloves.
It’s a good idea to take and put eyewear on cause you never know what if it shatters that comes flying at you. So [inaudible] my tool of choice is usually one of these and they just go behind that a little bit, try to work it out a little.
Typically they’ll put these things on with about five or six globs of black glue on the back. So you want to do is just gently slide behind it and pull it out in certain parts, see how it’s coming really loose there and you just work at gently without breaking the mirror just comes right off and you can see what was there. There was only a few globs of it.
He’s of here and there. That’s only wants to it. Now as for your medicine cabinet, you’re going to have to get a utility knife at score all of this caulk down along here, probably along the bottom and probably along the top as well. See, otherwise this will never come out and typically these are held in with four screws.
There’s one there on this one down here and you will see two others on the other side here.
There’s one up top there and one down there and once you want screw all four of those, you’ll be done. You just pull it out and when you go to put your new one in, you may have to make your whole bigger, but you always want to measure your cavity here, measure, do opening and make sure that you know what the dimensions are of your new medicine cabinet. Will it fit in that opening? Will I have to carve a bigger opening? Do I have room to cut a bigger opening of finding you to, you know what?
If there was electrical wires running right up here, am I going to be able to go up? If I needed to go up, am I going to be able to go sideways if I needed to go sideways? So those are the things you want to look at once you pulled us out.
Then looking down here at the switch in the outlets, this is all going to get replaced. We’re replacing this with a monitor, uh, Decoro switch and we’re going to replace these here with a more modern uh, outlet as well.
And we have to change it to a ground fall, the GFCI outlet as required by code. Cause anytime you’re within about six feet of water, you have to have a protected outlet. So this is not a protected outlet and we have to fix that according to building codes. And then also to remove your backsplash and science flashes, you also have to check your utility knife here and score it one there. And that’ll enable you to get behind it and pry it off of the wall.
So I typically, when I do demo work, I use a variety of different tools. I have all sorts of hammers that I use and different sizes of these little uh, crowbars demo bars. And um, so sometimes you use like the real thin, uh, taping knives here to get you into the little cracks to get you started.
Then you can pull it out big enough to get your big boy in there and then you just pull it off the wall and you want to try not to kill it, the drywall at the same time. You know, when I’m cooking, he holes through the dry wall.
So you just do it gently, you know, so you can see how easily we pulled that out. And then we’ll do the same thing on the back. Well, we hope you’re finding this video useful so far.
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Because with all of these remodeling videos we have, I guarantee you don’t want to miss a single one. So we got this guy off the wall now, and by the way, I’m a firm believer in not just throwing stuff into the landfill. So we are going to put this on craigslist and they will be somebody that wants this, believe it or not, for 10 Bucks Deli, throw it in a mobile home or use it as a second sink out in their garage. But we’ve sold these every time we’ve done it, I don’t believe in throwing anything in the landfill.
And then you got to remember, you gotta come by with your utility knife and get all the way up here on this cause that’s sealed to the wall there and it’s also sealed to the wall over there as well.
So you will not be able to pull the vanity off the wall until you get those done. Okay? Now here under the sink by code, you have to screw it to the wall so you can see it. That’s where the screw, it’s right there. We’ll have to undo that screw right there.
And then we’re going to cut the dream pipe. We have a special, a PVC saw that’s made out of a metal string and we’ll show you in a minute, but we’ll cut it right here so that just the straight pipe will be sticking out of the wall and then we’d be able to slide everything straight out. We’ll have to cut openings around.
There’s already an opening there, will make it a little bigger to get that valve out of there. And same thing with the other side and then we’ll be ready to pull the sink couch.
So this is our PVC saw here and I may not look with this wire here, it may not look uh, according to your convention of what a song should look like. But that’s what it is. It’s a tight metal string that has these sharp edges that dig into the PVC pipe. And you can see we already cut it right there, cut it all the way through, only takes about a minute and a half. So now we’ve got everything separated and we’re ready to fall.
There’s been any out. All right, so we have removed the vanity and you can see this just a little bit of mold along the back there. So we went ahead and spray it with some of them all control and we also spray the back of the vanity as well to make sure we neutralize it. Now one of the things that you’ll find a lot with these older bathrooms that were built in the sixties seventies or whatever, I dunno why builders were really stupid back then, but if you look, see there’s just barely fits through the 24 inch door opening.
So we had to take the door off and we do this a lot.
We always have to remove the door. And the older houses, the newer ones that were built in the 80s and above, they tend to give you 30 inch doors in the bathroom, which I think are much better. So if you’re having a house that’s custom built, you might want to check with your builder and ask them if they can give you a 30 or 36 inch door into your bathrooms. You do not want a 24 inch door, they’re just tiny anyway, but you can see what we were left with here. Not a big deal, but sometimes it can be a pain trying to take these doors off the hinges here.
Uh, because what happens is people paint over the hinges. So let me show you this door over here. Do they paint right over the hinges? And sometimes that can make it difficult to remove your screws. All right, so here you can see we’ve cleaned everything out.
We’ve swept everything out. I usually do that immediately as soon as I pull out the, um, and the entity, I usually like to sweep the floor out and everything.
Now, one thing, let me point out just a couple of items here. So here’s our linoleum floor and you can see there’s already another layer below it. So we know we’ve got at least two layers of linoleum to pull out and probably what we may end up doing with this wall, since the builder damaged it too when they were putting in the, uh, the vanity, what we’re going to do is probably cut a piece of drywall right here just to eliminate all of this stuff here.
Just start with all brand new. And so this is a standard one and a half inch drain line that comes out of the, uh, the wall and most bathrooms. And as soon as you cut this pipe and you remove the sin, guess what? You’ve just removed the trap. And the trap is what had the water in it that kept all the sewer gases from coming up in your house.
So depending on where you are, it won’t take, but a minute before you start smelling it, it just really bad. So he gets, so you always want to plug it off. Um, you know, some people do it with a paper towel or some people use a cloth. Um, we also like to use these as a one and a half inch PVC cap. So we just take that and stick it right on there and now we’re capped off.
We don’t have to worry about the gases anymore. Okay. And just to remind her, like I said, make sure you’re always wearing gloves. I wear when you’re ticking down the stuff, um, wear eye protection and wear a mask. Now I’m going to put my mass back on in a second.
I just took it off just to, uh, so you could hear me more clearer. Europe. Uh, but this definitely is, it’s a green mold. I’ve sprayed it and we’re probably gonna spray it again just to help neutralize it and we’ll just slice it up.
You get this dry wall off of the wall and we’ll put new drywall down.
Yeah. Well guess what? This fooled us. We thought the yellow here was in the Nolan. It felt it looked just like an knowing until we got down here and looked.
It’s actually tile. So we’ve already started shipping it up and then it’s on top of this linoleum here. And what I like about this is this comes up real easy. So once we chip off the tiles, these will come right up.
Maybe we’ll even try to slide under it and pull them up and they won’t be any mortar stuff on the floor to have to grind down, which is even better.
This is much better than me. Oh, hope for this kind of tile. So here’s the result of about an hour or so of work, maybe less. So we basically just took our five in one tool and chiseled underneath wherever we saw the linoleum and it would pull the tile up with it. So here’s a closer look at it.
Kind of went like this. You still have to chisel gear in there.
So it does take a little bit of time because once it clears up, boy it looks fairly clean back in. This will be ready to time right on him. Well, we finally completed the removal of all the tiles and the linoleum tiles that were on underneath them and we really lucked out here because thank God that whoever did the installation in the first place did such a poor job.
You can see they hardly put any adhesive down at all.
Only when you see the orange here, that’s pretty much where they had adhesive. And so we were able to get most of it to come up pretty quickly. And then we have a nice smooth surface. We don’t have to diamond grind down the floor at all.
So now we can just toggle right on it. So our next step here is to remove the toilet here. Now, but tell her that there’s only a couple of things you gotta do. First one, you got to turn off the valve, the water there, and then you flush the toilet and it’s still going to be toilet, a toilet water left in the tank and in here. And you could suck that out with the um, with your shop vac or you can just, you know, put it on a little flatbed cart.
We usually use a little card and just wheel it out and hopefully it doesn’t drain too much water.
You might want to put a paper or cardboard down because once you lift this off the ground, there’s going to be that wax ring on there and it gets a little gooey. So really all you do is you have to unscrew. This is not right here on this side and the other night on the other side and that’s usually all that’s holding the toy that down. Unless you have any caulking that you might have, um, script around.
But we don’t need that here because they just tiled right up to it and didn’t call for anything. So let’s go ahead and get that done.
A lot of times with the older cabinets, they might be an inch or two smaller than today’s cabinets. So these cabinet blocks that they put here on the cement block wall for you to screw the back of your cabinet into they’re too low. So we have to put two more and then we’re going to use concrete anchors, tap cons to screw him, block there and a block there because the new cabinets are likely to be up here at the 34 inch mark from 34 inches down about 32 inches along the back of the cabinet.
There’s usually a strip of wood or something that you can run a screw through it and end of the board. So you have to have that there. So we will also add that as well. All right, so we are now ready to begin tiling and here’s a sample of our tile. They’re going to be 12 by 24 and so what we have to do to prepare the floor as we have to cut the bottoms in these door jams to allow the title, all those sliding underneath when you’re tiling and you well, how deep do you need it to be?
Well that’s the burning question there.
And you want to make sure you don’t cut off too much of this, otherwise you will be left with an embarrassing gap above your tile. So a good rule of thumb is this is a five sixteenths inch porcelain tile that we’re using here. And we’re going to trial a quarter of an inch trial under it. A comb comb pattern that’s a quarter of an inch.
And by the time you mush the tile down on it, it flattens it down to about an eighth of an inch, which is about how thick cardboard boxes.
So a good rule of thumb is you take the tile and put it on a piece of cardboard and trace your line right there and that’s how much you’d have to cut at the bottom. So yeah, but with the amount that I do with all my tile jobs, I use this big old electric jam song. This is a door jamb saw that was made specifically for making this cut at the bottom of the thing. And as you can see here, since it’s electronic, it’s going to go pretty quick.
You just go right up against it. So probably in about 10 seconds each door jamb has done. So this is made for using volume and accurate work. And the way it works is you set the blade height here according to how high your tile sensor on the target list.
And we’ll have to raise this blade here a little bit and make sure that we have adequate clearance.
And that’s all you do. You just go ahead and cut the door jams [inaudible] so you see how easy this tool makes it. And what I like about it, it has a port that goes right to your vacuum, your shop back so that way there’s no dust.
You’re just in and out and done in two seconds. See the cook cleanly in there, no stick art style slides right under there.
So give just a little bit for some margin of error case. We need to go a little thicker with the uh, Vincent. Normally with a 12 inch by 24 inch tile that we’re going to use. I prefer to do a one half inch trial, but the problem we have here is we need to meet this floor up against an existing ceramic floor that was made out of cheap, quarter inch thick ceramic and they hardly put any thought into it. Down.
So we need to lead up to that without any lifted. So that’s why we’re going to be coming back over here doing this using a quarter inch trial and we’ll back out of the tiles to make sure we have good adhesion to it.
Well you can see we’ve dry food at all of the 12 by 24 tiles here and you could see we had to cut them to fit around the door jams there. So this all took about an hour and a half. Believe it or not, it does take a lot of time to make some of these cuts, especially the angled ones that have to fit under the door jams.
So this is now ready for gen set. We’re going to go ahead and mix up our mortar and start Thailand. Yeah. And just quickly I wanted to show you the type of thin set we’re using.
We’re using what I call an LH tea, which is, which means large and heavy tiles.
So whenever I’m using 12 by 24 is I use this type of mortar and I mix it just slightly on the dry side. That way the tiles won’t, they won’t sink down in there. Uh, it’s an anti sagging formula. Um, so there’s a number of manufacturers that have these, but I get this and make sure that it says a polymer modified and set on their associates with the polymer on there. So that helps it adhere better to the cement substrate that we are putting this on.
Now if you were putting this onto something like Schluter Kirti board or something that’s completely watertight, you wouldn’t be able to use this.
You’d have to use something without the polymer in there. You’d have to use a non modified inset. But this one right here, you’ll see right on there, it says on here non sec formula for large format, heavy tile and stone. Okay, so this is what we’re going to use here.
And you can see on the back of the bag, is there a diagram there that shows you, you can use it on the floors or on the walls or on a bench. And then outside you can also use it if you want to put it outside, you can use it on the floor and on the walls only.
All right, so I’ve keyed in the first batch here to do the first row of tiles, right? So then we call this king it in. This is where you, you just kind of do a quick skim coat of the mortar and now we’re going to trial that into our tribal lines.
You know, I’m using a quarter inch travel here and you just put it in here, drag it at about a 45 degree angle all the way across ahead. Real slow. Just to show you now, if you look at my trial lies, what do you notice about them? They’re all perfectly parallel. Okay.
So I don’t ever want to see you guys doing this. This is what I see all the time on uh, on TV. Watch this. Yeah, we made a circle. Okay, this is not the way to do this.
The reason why you never want to do this is because the air has nowhere to go and these will never collapsed down. The whole idea of tiling as you put the tile down on top of the mortar in a collapses down these groups.
But see if the ear has nowhere to go with these will not collapse as a hundred percent impossible to collapse. So I, I get so mad when I see all these flipping shows. They bring in their floor contractors and these guys have no clue how to key in mortar whatsoever.
It’s all gotta be parallel, otherwise the air won’t collapse out in the air, shoots out the end. So that’s how you do that. Okay? Make sure you do it that way. Do not curve your tribal lines.
So here’s my first time and you could see I backburnered it.
And the reason why we do this is to make sure that mortar has made contact with them pretty much 100% now the tile council of North America pretty much tells you 85 to 95% I like to go for her 100% myself just to make sure I have everything covered there so that when I put this down onto this shroud, out mortar right here and it all matches down, it’ll all stick all over here. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve pulled up old tile jobs and seeing where the, the mourner never made it into the little square sells. See how you can still see a little bit right there if the motor doesn’t make it into there, how’s it going to hold the Thailand place? It’s not.
So once you have your title down, you want to move it side to side and mash it down a little bit and you want to make sure those bridges collapsed down, right? And you’ll, you want to make sure that your, your level of side to side this way. And I also will turn it this way to make sure the entire tile is level in both directions because every other tile in this room is going to be set according to this. This is our cornerstone piece. I often use multiple spirit levels just to make sure you know, so we always want to make sure we’re level okay.
So you can see what I do is I usually take my finger or a knife and just kind of remove that last little bit right there in between each tile so that it doesn’t ooze up in between the times when I placed the next one.
And then you can see I’m using these little spacers here. This is my tile leveling system here. And the way this works is you can see I’ve kind of gotten a wedge in there and just to show you how it works, but when you put the next time and you’ll run this wedge in between, taking them down with a little plier tool there and it makes sure that these two tiles are completely in playing with one another. They got to be at the exact same level with no lepage, zero slippage, especially important in the bathroom.
And especially important around the toilet where you can’t have any tiles next to each other, even slightly crooked or anything. Because when you put that toy that down, it will rock back and forth and you’re going to end up doing a lot or shimming trying to balance that toilet. And that’s a the number, probably the number one mistake I see a lot of people make when they taught on the bathrooms because then they have a wiggly toilet because of that. So he can see a little better what I was talking about here.
So it makes sure that these two tiles are exactly the same level.
So once I go ahead and tighten this down as wedge in with the tool that makes it go, click, click, click, click it. You’ll see that the levels were completely match up and there’ll be perfect. Okay, so here’s our first course I’ll put down and all of our tile leveling where Jews are in place here. And you could see your nice and perfect level. The way you tell your level two is when you put this thing down your level here, you shouldn’t see any gaps.
I’ll it. It should be just perfect. It just smacked out perfect and it shouldn’t rock. There’s no rocking left to right on this right. And here’s the next one here.
Every piece you put down, you have to check the level here.
This level, their annual, let’s check both directions on level there. And then there’s the last piece up against the wall there. So then we put the clips in here for the next course of tile that we’re going to lay down next to this. And let’s start trialing out some more mortar.
All right, so here we are. We’re progressing nicely here across the room. Everything’s Nice and flat on the surface there. And you’ll notice as I get going, I like to make sure that all my mortar gets combed to the short distance. It’s a lot easier to force all of the air out of a shorter distance than it is, you know, the length of the tile.
So that’s just something I do to make life a little easier for us. And you could see what I’d like to do also is all force a little of the mortar right up to the edge of each tile underneath and then we’ll all let off.
So it’s nice and straight. That way I know I have a hundred percent coverage right up to the end of the time. Here we are the next day, everything’s all nice and dry and you can see we have a nice flat floor here.
All we have to do now is to just knock off all these guys here, which we do with a rubber mallet. You just give them a good bang. They go flying on. Sometimes you have a few shots that you have to deal with, but for the most part that’s how they come off. Just like, yeah, right now that the flooring is in here, I’m turning my attention back over here to securing this hot water pipe.
So you can see here we tap Condon with a copper strap and now it’s tight. I mean it’s not even moving at all before you sign was paying it back and forth. The last thing in the road, you want folks as a loose pipe in the wall because this joint right here is that risk for cracking and breaking or whatever.
And the last thing you want is a leak inside your wall when you’re putting in all brand new stuff, right? So then I came back over here to this one and I put a tack on in here with your builder originally didn’t have anything at all there.
So this was loose before. Now it’s nice and tight. That’s perfectly tight. They already had one acre here, but there was nothing on the other side. So who knows?
Maybe it was late Friday afternoon. There was beer 30 the guy wanted to get out of there, who knows. But of course it always falls on our hands to fix it. Well, we’ve already got the first piece of drywall on.
Uh, we actually ran out of dry wall.
We didn’t have a full size piece. So we’re just gonna do it with two smaller pieces. No big deal. Make actually makes it a little easier for you when you have to draw all these holes because I only need to drill one hole on this piece. And then on Julie’s two holes and the other piece of Drywall, and this is always a good time to take pictures of what’s behind your wall so that you’ll know later on when you’re putting more drywall in and where you can put screws, where you can.
So now on her crowning a, everybody has their own favorite method. Um, I like to just apply it right to where the grout line is and the idea is to come across at a 45 degree angle to force it into the drought there and then scrape it all away. Um, some people will dump the grout out all over the floor. And to me that’s just a waste because the grout only needs to go where the grout line as a no one else.
So it’s just going to put it in like that. And the proper method to really to disburse the ground once it’s in there is you want to come at a 45 degree angle across the line because if you just dragged straight up the line, are you going to do is drag the grout right back out of the line? All right, so I’ve completed the drowning here and I’ve just done my initial wipe and molding and shaping of the drumlines with the sponge. We’re going to let those dry off about an hour or so, give it a chance to set up and then I’m going to come by with just a very, very lightly damp sponge. Tick it off, whatever little bit of haze might be left.
I usually try to get to a good job of getting most of that up when I sponging it and molding it into place here initially. Um, because you definitely don’t want to leave any of his haze on there. Sometimes they just doesn’t want to come off. So I always try to be proactive and get it off ahead of time. So we’ll check back in an hour is a little trick that I use it.
I’m gonna pass on to you when you’re sponging up the title. I’ll usually use one tile, okay, one sponge per tile. I don’t swirl it around all over the place because all you’re going to do is be mixing around more mud, okay? And all you’re going to do is keep redeposit in the haze on the floor. So what I do is this, I go one stroke like that that I flipped the sponge, oversee.
There’s a little bit of grout on there and I go one more down like that. So then I take the edge and go onto the next tile.
Just go to the gun and don’t let it touch the ground line. When you get to the hand, you don’t want to read what the grout and keep mixing more in him. So then you flip to the other long edge of the spurge and just come right along here.
Now you have two more ads. You’ve got the shore down in there and the short end there that are still clean. So now you can come over to the next tile and you go there and then you flip it around one more time and drag it all the way almost to the gap there. And that’s how you clean that. See, so now there’s a lot less grout coming off on the sponge and we’re doing a lot better job of cleaning it and several rinse back into the bucket of the clean water.
Come back and do the next tile.
And then as the best way to clean off all of the grout residue. Oh, we finally have the new vanity hooked up here. And uh, what you can see we did here was we replaced the 24 inch vanity with a 30 inch vanity. Uh, by doing, so we’re violating code by two inches.
But you know, so what the, when the builder built this place, they only left 13 inches from the center of the toilet to the shower there. So theoretically you’re supposed to have 15 inches is what most places require a, so we’re going to have 15 on this side and we’re only going to have 13 on this side. So not too bad and uh, it looks a lot better anyway to have that extra six inches and in size there, especially for that counter there. And the newer toilet we’re putting in over here, that’s the uh, a champion for their, that’s a tall and skinny toilet.
It’s not the big fat wide ones, like, like the old style, like the one we pulled out of here.
That was the original, it was a low cedar. This one sits up a little higher and by making the, the tanks tolerance skinnier, it also gives them more force when the thing flushes. That’s why they see here that it’ll flush a bucket of Gotcha. So underneath the sink here you can see your hot water on the left called water on the right and there’s your drain going out to the street right there in the middle. And so chill attached to that.
What I normally do is I’ll use this piece here. This is called a trap adapter, one and a half inch trap adapter. So this is made to be cemented directly onto that stub of a street dream pipe leading out there. That’s the waistline. And then the front end of this, we’ll meet up with our trap here, so the trap was going to go right into the, into that adapter.
Once we get it all cemented in place, this will slide right into it. One other to come up top side here for a second. Just show you this. So that’s what it looks like. It’ll plug into it on the left there in, it will come out of the wall and then this would normally go.
I’ll show you here. You don’t normally go right into that tailpipe problem is that tailpipe is up a little high. So what we’re going to do is use an extended piece here. This is a tailpipe extender piece. Now if you look closely at the end of the tip of that drain line there, you can see I put primer on there.
That purple stripe, they around the edge. Whenever you’re going to submit two pieces together, you always want to use primer. I put it into both the piece that’s going to submit on and to the pipe itself and the reason why it’s purple so that you can see that it’s there. You know, so when the inspectors come, there’ll be able to easily tell that you did indeed put primer on when you submitted the two together.
I see too many people that do this and don’t use the primer and that’s a no, no, you’re just asking for trouble.
All right, so here we just stick the tube in there and eventually we’ll, we’ll tighten this down all the way, but I just want to leave everything kind of loose so we can dry fit and see what else to go where. All right, so the extension tube, um, you gotta put the, the not on first and the green gasket here and you don’t have the, the ledge is up, the flat part is facing up, so there’s this angled part can slip down inside and seal that up there where the extension to meets the downspout there, the Tailpipe, and then you’re just screwed in tight there in a few seconds later. That’s what we’ve done. Now here. You can see I’ve already put the nut on here first two and there’s that gasket and it’s going to force it down on top of it and start screwing this piece in it.
So now we have everything all ready to go.
I’m just gonna do a little tightening before we test it for water. Okay. Yeah. Every time before I turn on my faucet, the very first time when I put a new faucet and you always want to take off the air raider and flush out whatever’s in the lines there.
Okay. Do you never want to have whatever’s clogging and outline to go in your here Raider and clog up that nice filter of yours? Okay. No, it was just one more test that I want to do here and that is to test the led on my faucet.
This is an led, yeah, Faucet here.
Do you know what turns on there in a little waterfall? Me. Let me turn off the light here so you can see what it does. What’s really cool about this is it in the dark, you can see it better. Good.
Shines a spotlight. I’ve led on the rock and that kind of the water kind of glows a little bit because this is a really cool feature and this is controlled by a little turbine inside the head here. There’s no batteries or anything. It’s just strictly going off of natural water turbulence. We put our new closet bolts in and tighten down the nuts just to hold them secure there.
And these nuts, we’ll hold them tight to the position that they’re in.
Um, just enough for you to get the toilet to fit down over them. Now it’s important to make sure that these are exactly at the nine o’clock and three o’clock positions of the clock. Otherwise your toilet could be tilted one way or the other. It’s gotta be completely facing straight out.
And then, um, you can see I’ve been using these, uh, seen a seal gaskets now for last few years. I don’t use wax rings anymore. These work a lot better and they’re easier to deal with.
Plus if you ever have to lift up your toilet or receipt or something, um, you don’t have to buy another wax ring. He just reuse this thing so it’s cleaner, it’s nicer.
And let’s go ahead and install the toilet. So here you can see we got the toilet in, uh, there fastened down with these bigger plastic nuts now, which I really like. This is not going to be any corrosion ever. And here’s those wonderful white caps I’ve told you about that everybody should be using. Okay.
And you can see in them back here we had just a little bit of curvature or sometimes you get a little curvature from the toilet from the manufacturer. So I put one of my little blue spacers under there to help keep it nice and sturdy. So now I’m going to, when we come back out here and check, can’t even wiggle it at all. I think it’s perfect. It’s just rock solid.
And we put one on the other side too. So we will do is we will come back later on with our little dremmel tool and just slice the part that’s sticking out and then we’re going to caulk around.
All right, so I wanted to show you something. And you, do you notice anything? No, it looks a little peculiar about this picture here.
While you can see we mounted our light, I knew it was going to be a way offset anyway cause you know sometimes builders just do really stupid things. And this is one such case, this is one where we see this quite a bit. They just don’t know how to center the can for a light over the vanity. Now this one looks like it’s only 12 inches off the wall, maybe not even the 12 inches. So, but anyway, especially with the type of light we’re using, you’re not gonna get away with that.
So we now have to look at moving this light over about maybe six inches or soda. Okay. So let’s quickly review here how much we’ve spent here and just what we’ve remodeled in this part of the bathroom. And remember we only remodeled everything outside of the shower. We didn’t need to remodel inside the shower because the previous owner had already done it and we don’t know when, but it looks pretty decent and it did not need to be remodeled.
So if we pan down here, we can look and see here. This was our big ticket items. Here was the vanity, the vanity here was $500 and as we looked down there even further, we can see the toilet, there was $250 and then further down here on the floor we can see this is about $40 worth of tile. I actually got that on sale at home depot for about a buck 25 a square foot. And then as we come back up and look at some of the other fixtures that we have here and the other items here, you can see here, this mirror here was $50 this widespread faucet here with the led light on it and you can see the led light there.
That was $90 vanity light.
There was $67 yeah, the medicine cabinet here was 30 and all of the other parts and everything add up. Remember you have to buy a bag of thin set that’s about $20 to put down the tile and then you have to put down ground as well. And that’s another $20 bag and all of the little incidentals and everything just seemed to add up here. And so our grand total, we came in and write it around $1,200 and remember that’s you doing the work yourself.
If you hired somebody to come in and work with you, maybe a friend or somebody that might add on another couple of hundred dollars, but this is the bare bones minimum that you can get away with doing a bathroom up. Reasonably decent like this at a reasonable price. $1,200 seems to be from what we’ve seen in the past with the number of Condo flips that we’ve done. That seems to be about the minimum you can get away with without making it look really, really cheap. And as you can see here, we actually made this electric, like a very classy looking bathroom here.
And the only cheap items we had in here was the medicine chest. You’re right where I need to be and it says Rac. Okay, well I hope we’ve given you inspiration for how to remodel your bathroom at a pretty good budget. And if you liked what you saw here on this video, we have plenty more and other categories and other videos and remodeling your bathroom. So be sure and check out those.
And while you’re here, don’t forget, subscribe, click on that subscribe button down below, and then click on the bell icon right next to that, and that will alert you every single time we upload a new video so that you don’t miss a single one. So that’s it for this time, folks. Thanks for coming by. We do this all for you and we’ll see you on the next one. [inaudible].