Cheap & easy DIY home solar power system – cost, parts, where to buy.

Get everyone and thank you for picking to watch my video or my home setup of a grid tie solar system or whatever you are called anyway, so I’m just going to jump up on the roof right now. First of all and show you my solar panels that I’ve assembled and connected up mounted on the roof, so it just gives a second wire jump up with, but every once over, four solar panels all connected up and mounted on the roof here in parallel, 12-volt set Up wide it all up laid out the corner as well. Okay, what’s each side, ok, everybody! So this is where all the business happens. That’S the conduit coming down off of the roof from the solar panels comes down the wall there ones over here and just sort of finishes there in this.

This is um. This is pretty thick double insulated one. So I wasn’t too concerned about having it exposed like that. There’S not really any kind of danger so anyway, up wire, travels along down here along the back of this wooden box and then into up along the side here and into here. So is that that’s the same way that comes down and it curls around behind here up into this little box here, which is the solar charge controller, so I’d say it’s a 30 amp solar charge, controller 12 or 24 volt automatic detection and there any way that The panels are connected directly into here and from there from there.

The battery is connected here, so the battery comes out of here and it just comes down along here under and into a few sales. Futile falls inside the 50 amp power automatic reset circuit breaker. So that’s for any overload if value and anything goes crazy wrong in it overloads that that will protect the solar control it from melting down and they just connect it on to this battery yeah. So anyway, this projector solar control, this projector solar controller. Here, when I bought it and also comes with this display panel, you can buy it.

You can buy it by itself without the panel or you can. You can also buy it with the display panel, so I recommend buying it with the display federal, because it gives you a lot more functionality of the system gives you the ability to set our battery charge, parameters and device parameters, and our solar panel parameters and stuff, Like that so anyway, as you can see as soon as you press the buttons that gives us the ability to see straightaway the voltage input from its old panels, the current input from these solar panels and also gives you an indication of if the system is charging The battery at the present time it gives you the it also gives you the the current voltage input going into the batteries. So this is simple, coming off the panels, and then this is what’s being charged into batteries, also, along with how much current being charged into your batteries also, at least here your load, because this solid controller, you can plug your load directly into the salt control here And you can run a DC load straight up. It’S all control, but I’m not using that function, because I’m using pretty big inverters which need to pull a large a current straight off the batteries themselves. So I’m not using that function.

But anyway, as you scroll through the hey, what’s this coming as you scroll through the panels through the screens, there gives you a date giving you charge energy, it measures it in day and month in total. So this day alone, I’ve produced three point: zero, seven kilowatt hours of electricity, which is like three thousand and seventy watt hours of electricity in a 24 hour day. So that’s well and truly enough power to run a few big appliances within the house. It gives you your current battery voltage and it can being charged into it and also it lists the state of charge. So it’s at forty eight percent state of charge at the moment and that’s because I’ve been running a few things off of it during trial and then here is there probably the more important one.

Is your PV right there measurements so usually your voltage coming in off the panels, your current coming in off the panels, and that shows you exactly how many watts you’re producing so that’s after six o’clock at the moment, c-calm say after six o’clock at the moment. So I’m not making very much power on you anyway. Give you controller temperature. The actual temperature of the controller itself say, gives you ability to market and monitor what it’s running in your load, which is not very useful to me and then we’re back to start. There’S got some other things.

It’S got some other windows here you can scroll through and pick other menus to go in and view so. Another menu which is pretty useful here, is the control parameters, and it gives you the ability to select your type of battery from seal AGM, gel or flooded batteries. So you can pick that down and it’s got it work on it. When you pick that it runs off a whole bunch of preset parameters, it also, as you set your battery capacity in amp ere’s. So I’ve got 5 and 120 truck batteries which add up to a total of 600 ampere, so I’ll set that in there and it helps the charger to more accurately charge your batteries temperature compensation, which is pretty useless announcement over voltage discharge and charge limit, gives you The ability to set a whole bunch of parameters manually they control exactly what voltage of battery is charged at and what voltage they disconnect and reconnect and all that kind of stuff so gives the ability to set here you charging periods, how long you want it to Equalise how long you want at the boost so on and yes get a couple other windows: they can set your load parameters, so you can you can control exactly when these turns on and what voltages it turns on and off that and so on.

Let’S get charged modes, you can pick whether you want to charge it. I’Ve depended on that the state of charge percentage or your voltage percentage, so you’re, probably better off running an involved into a percentage we voltage reading so that it can charge the battery more accurately. Compare depending on your voltage anyway, anyways we come down here. It’S all the controller anyway, like I said the the batteries connected in here. Solar controller comes down and it connects under there and and then I’ve got five batteries.

The five truck batteries all connected up in twelve one parallel justice painted chips that are they well anyway, so yeah. These are all secondhand batteries, which I picked up off the ball down out of truck yards. That people didn’t want anymore and I just took a bit of a bit yeah a bit of a gamble and cub cartons of beer. It cost me four or five of them and they all recharged up really nice and good, sir, and then there’s the inverters. So there’s two projector 2000 watt power inverters.

So there’s a fair bit of power running here, as you can see this one on the left-hand side then being connected up yet because I’m still doing a bit of trial and error to see what I can do with him. But anyway, the inverters themselves the inverters themselves, one connects over here, the one that is connected now connects here. So you got the ground. Supply supply is fused up with a huge 250 app to refuse. It’S got to be high enough so that it can handle the huge amount of currents.

That’S going to be flowing through those cables at at 4,000 watts at 4000, Watts. 240 volt. That’S going to pull around about 240 amps DC current! So there’s a lot of current flowing through those cables so anyway that is connected up, and that runs down straight up into the back of the inverter tighten down with nuts. These are two plugs to football base.

The outlet on/off switch power, light and fault light so that you see, if anything’s going on with it, and then I yeah it’s just a funny thing on the other side, with this one so yeah, that’s it everybody thanks for watching my video to check out my And a solar panel setup, if you have any questions, just post your comments, if you want any help with ever anything here, just let us know thumbs up the video thanks everybody we say you

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